Beauty industry does not stand still, and new technologies, products, and trends appear in the field of makeup each season. On the one hand they are supposed to make the life of a girl easier, but on the other hand I would say that the existing diversity makes it more complex instead. Yet, there still are the cornerstones on which everything is built, and on which everything is based, and today we are going to talk about them.

Any face corrections, no matter how they are called, should be based on the shape of the face. With the help of shadows and light correction you can visually change the shape of the face, nose, eyes and mouth. Shadows and light correction or contouring is drawing light and dark spots on the face, which contributes to facial modeling. Among the tools used for facial correction there are highlighters (means of decorative cosmetics for highlights and accents on certain parts of the face to correct its relief. Highlighters contain reflective particles that are white, light beige, ivory, light pink, gold, silver and bronze. Among the darkening cosmetics there are creams, correctors, powders, bronzers, shimmers, luminizers. Textures of all the products can be diverse.

Types of correction:

Monochrome correction when there is used one color corrector (light or dark), and with the help of applying multiple layers there is formed the depth and the relief of the face.

Polychrome modeling when most preferably four shades are used in order to avoid sudden transitions from light to dark (light, shadow, semi-shadow, shimmering), and when the basic face color can be one shade lighter than the natural base.

Cross correction, when dry highlighters and oil-based correctors are used, or vice versa – oil-based highlighters and dry darkeners.

Doubling modeling, when there is used oil-based correction from light to dark, and then it is doubled with dry highlighters and dry darkeners.

Using any kind of correction enables to achieve the 3D effect, volume and relief. The main law of every correction is as follows: dark makes smaller, light and shimmering makes bigger. Yet, let’s discuss every form of the face and how to make the best correction depending on it.

Oval face. The length of the face is slightly larger than its width, chin is slightly rounded, the widest part of the face is cheeks, the width of the forehead is slightly larger than the width of the jaw. It is considered to be the ideal form, and its lucky owners do not need to change the form, all they need is to emphasize the facial sculpture and they are ready to conquer the world.

Triangular and heart-shaped face. The length of the face is slightly larger than the width. Pointed chin, forehead is the widest part of the face, chin is the narrowest part of the face, the face is gradually narrowed from the forehead to the chin. Correction: it is necessary to balance the upper and lower part of the face by darkening in the corners of the forehead and projections, blush is applied from the start of the cheekbones in an arc shape to the wings of the nose, the chin is lightened.

Square face differs with expressive angular facial features, the face is of equal width at top and bottom. Correction: it is necessary to make the bottom and the top parts more light, color-correcting powder is applied on the corners of the forehead and of the lower jaw (in case of dry correction). Blush is applied in curved line from the point of the nose and cheekbones to the nasolabial furrows.

Trapezoid face. The frontal arcs are shifted and the jaw is deployed. The length of the face is slightly larger than its width. Correction: it is necessary to visually reduce a part of the face darkening side parts of the jaw, from the point of the beginning of the cheekbone on the cross. Blush is applied to the cheeks in the form of rectangle shading to the temples.

Rectangular face. Here, the vertical dimensions prevail over the horizontal ones, the forehead is high, the chin is long and the temples are sunken. Correction: the face needs to be visually expanded; the side surfaces must be lightened. The upper part of the forehead, the hairline and the lower oval are darkened. Blush is applied to the protruding part of the cheekbones in the form of a round spot.

Diamond-shaped face. The length of the face is slightly greater than its width. The chin is clearly pointed. The widest part of the face is cheekbones, which are often located high enough. The outline of the forehead and chin are tapered. Correction: visually reduce the length of the face, and soften the chin, apply dark powder on the chin, lighten the narrow part at the temples, and the lower jaw. Apply the blusher to the highest point of the cheekbones in the form of a triangle, without going to the temples and shade them along the line connecting the temple to the corner of his mouth.

Oblong face (also can be called elongated). Very similar to the oval, but facial length is much greater, one and half times bigger than the width. Correction: darken the chin and forehead on the edge of hair growth. Apply blush horizontally.

Pear-Shaped Face. The face is characterized by a broad lower part, prominent cheekbones, the lower part is square, the forehead is relatively narrow. Correction: lighten the frontal zone, darken the chin and lower jaw. Apply blusher put on the cheekbone in a V shape with an inclination towards the temple.

Round face. Often round face is based on oval or quadrangular face type, yet covered with some fullness. This form has flowing lines of the chin, the cheeks are rounded. The height and width of the face are almost identical. Owners of round faces look much younger than women with other types of faces. Correction: the face should be lengthened by shading the side parts of the face and submandibular space. Blush is applied on the bias, from the start of the cheekbones and the corners of the mouth.

There are some more secrets of facial correction for a relief and 3D effect.

“Merlin Dietrich Shadow” with a long lip (a large space between the nose and the lip) form a triangular shadow under the nose.

For the eversion of the lower lip there is put a soft dark point of 5 mm in diameter, in order to shorten the chin, and an artificial dimple is drawn on its edge. With sunken temples in recess it is necessary to lighten them in order to give volume. The part under the eyebrow is lightened, to emphasize the shape and the color of eyebrows.

All the “inconvenient” excavations (nasolabial, corners of the mouth) are filled with luminizer.

Nose correction

Non-proportional thin nose – in order to make its lines more smooth apply the basis tone which is slightly lighter than the original face color in a wide band from the nose to the tip, and darker tone on the sides, and highlight the hollow parts of the wings of the nose. If the nose is pointed, the tip can be powdered a little with peach blush.

Aquiline nose – to soften the forms slightly darken the part under the tip of the nose, it will visually reduce it, in this case, it is also recommended to focus on the eyes to highlight them and to divert attention.

Short nose – you need to slightly darken its side parts, and slightly lighten the tip of the nose and the partition between the nostrils.

Long nose – in order to make the nose seem shorter, make it look visually larger. To achieve this effect make the nose lighter than all the face, but slightly darken its tip.

Snub nose – masking snub nose resembles applying a make-up that allows you to extend a short nose, but in this case there should be applied more dark colors on the wings of the nose, and a more extensive peach color spot should be drawn on the tip of the nose.

Due to the illumination of one part of an object, and darkening of another part the human eye perceives the object voluminously. Chiaroscuro is one of the most expressive means of painting. With its help the artist sculpts the volume, creating the illusion of three-dimensional world. In make-up, we can safely use the laws that the dark color narrows, deepen the contour and making the object look farther, whereas the light ones expand, zoom in and enlarge it.

Correction of eye shape with the help of makeup

Eyes can be of different shape, size, position, color and expression. Depending on the size and form the eyes are classified as follows: almond eyes, cat’s eyes, round, large and small. In addition, the eyes differ in planting: deep-set and protruding, as well as depending on the distance between the eyes: close or wide apart. In addition, there is also a difference in position of the optic axis. Axis is a notional straight line running through the outer and inner corners of the eyes. The axis can be horizontal, in which case the corners of the eyes are located on the same straight line (classic version), rising – when the outer corner is higher than the inner one (eastern version), drop-down – when the outer corner is lower than the inner one (European version). Almond-shaped eyes are believed to be of the ideal form, the distance between the inner corners of which equals to the length of the eye and internal and external corners are on the same line.

Using eye makeup, you can visually change their shape and size. It is possible to correct the shape of the eye in various ways depending on the purpose. Round and bulging eyes are better to be “modeled” with dark matte shadows, applying them to the outer part, this way “pulling” the eye to the temple. Shades are not applied on the mobile eyelid. Light shades are applied on the space under the eyebrow. A dark pencil can also be applied on the inner edge.

Small and deep-set eyes can be visually enlarged and made more expressive. These eyes look more advantageous with light (pearlescent) shadows, covering the still eyelid as well. Apply a thick layer of mascara on the eyelashes. Curled lashes also “open” eyes, making them visually bigger. You can also use white kohl pencil on the lower eyelid from the inside. It also visually enlarges the eyes. Small eyes can also be visually enlarged with the help of 3D technology creating volume with the help of play of light, applying light shadows on the entire eyelid to the brow, and then darkening the upper part of the still lid in soft shading, thereby increasing the eye visually.

Falling eyes. Pay attention to the eyebrows for the correction of such eyes. First we need to mark the angle of the eyebrow by removing its looking down “tail” with tweezers, and then to finish the missing edge with cosmetic pencil. But now direct it up, making expanded brows. Next, apply the contour on the upper edge of the eyelids from the inner corner of the eye to the outside. The contour must start barely noticeable and end with a fat intensive line 1-2 mm thick. Thus you visually lift the lowered outer corners of eyes. Use thick black mascara for eyelashes. “Hanging” corners of the eyes can be corrected with the help of shadows. Don’t use pencil or liquid eyeliner. Do not line the eye, especially the lower eyelid. It only accentuates drooping outer corners. Take the dark shadows and apply them to the outer corners of the eyes, then carefully blend them towards the temples (upwards). This creates the feeling that the corners of the eyes are raised up.

In case of close-set eyes the nose bridge and the eye areas are lightened, but before it is necessary to fit colors if there is some problem with the eyes (redness, dark under-eye circles). Shadows are applied only to the outer corner of the eye, pulling in the temporal area.

In case of far-located eyes apply the shadows in rounded lines, prolonging them from the crease to the inner corner of the eye and up to the eyebrows, which would visually reduce the distance between the eyes.

Yet, do not draw a new face, love yourself, your personal beauty, emphasizing it with the help of the secrets of make-up artists.

Illustrated by Nastya Gry

Illustrated by Nastya Gry