The coming season with fashion week shows has become one of the most expected in fashion history. Where previously the audience was waiting for trends that will be involved in our life, this time everyone wants to see how revolutionary changes will influence the industry. Firstly, during the last six months many fashion houses replaced their creative directors that will be reflected in the collections. And secondly, many brands are attaching to the new “see now, buy now” show schedule. This business model assumes that the collection will be available in stores immediately after the runway.
Of course, this approach is a radical change of fashion houses’ schedule which requires a complete reorganization of seasonal collections, because the traditional marking “fall/winter”, “spring/summer” lose its relevance. Plus, this format will simplify the collection division into male and female, by combining them in one show. Thus, if the system “see now, buy now” come into force, brands will be showing two mixed collections in September and February instead of four collections a year (two female and two male – “fall/winter” and “spring/summer”).
It’s no wonder many conservative designers are afraid of so decisive revolution, and not all of them are in a hurry to follow the new trend of sales. But the most brave fashion houses believe that in today’s world of social networking and the rapid flow of information fashion needs to catch up spirit of the time, adapting to the demands of consumers. Therefore, some brands completely change their schedule, starting with the upcoming season. Others have not yet run the risk of completely following the new system, however, they partly try to test its effectiveness.
So, in anticipation of the new season, we decided to remind which of the fashion houses are willing to change the way of the fashion industry.
Follow a “see now/buy now” show schedule:
Burberry was the first fashion house which boldly stated about its transition to the new sales model. In September, the brand will combine its men’s and women’s lines into a “seasonless” show of clothes that will be immediately available for sale.
Tom Ford canceled his February runway show and announced he would instead present his fall line to the public in September – before the start of sales.
Tommy Hilfiger is also optimistic about the new business model, but his company needs time to prepare for work in the new schedule. He declared that he would move to a “see now, buy now” model in spring 2017.
Alexander Wang also decided to join the new business trend in the fashion industry. He took such an approach to his Resort 2017 collection for the first time. After showing the collection to buyers and press in June, per usual, its images and the full collection will be under embargo until the collection is delivered to stores in November. Plus, a selection of pieces from the Resort ’17 collection will be presented on the spring/summer 2017 show in September for the first time.
Thakoon is preparing to relaunch the brand with a September show and to follow a “see now, buy now” proposition.
Another British brand, Mulberry, is also closing the time gap between showing and selling. Creative director Johnny Coca’s first collection began dropping in stores in April, weeks — rather than months — after it appeared on the February runway.
Marks & Spencer
It is significant that mass-market brands began to adapt to the new movement of sales. Marks & Spencer, for example, launched a capsule collection in May, which they immediately began to sell.
Neiman Marcus and Alice+Olivia
Neiman Marcus has signed on as the official partner for Alice+Olivia’s first “see now, buy now” show, which has taken place in April.
Trying to follow partly:
Stella McCartney will present her first line of menswear in November this year, along with women’s spring collection. Both collections will be available almost simultaneously – women’s in November, men’s in December.
Prada fashion house has not yet decided whether it is ready to work according to the new calendar. But it tried this model after the February runway show, when it began to sell the Pionnière and the Cahier bags, which were presented on the catwalk.
Diane von Furstenberg
Diane von Furstenberg fashion house created a small collection of slip dress styles available to shop direct from her Fall presentation.
Proenza Schouler is getting into the “see now, buy now’ game and introduced a small capsule of ready-to-wear and bags on their Fall 2016 runway in February.
Céline also opted not to distribute pictures of the latest pre-collections until the clothes and accessories are available online and in stores.
Michael Kors also put a capsule line of fall ready-to-wear and accessories up for sale on his website immediately following his February runway show.
Customers could also cherry-pick a selection of runway items to preorder from Moschino, Joseph Altuzarra, Jason Wu, Michael Kors, Prabal Gurung, and more.
Combine men’s and women’s shows:
Gucci’s creative director, Alessandro Michele will now show both men’s and women’s together come 2017, but hasn’t yet decided whether it will be during women’s or men’s fashion week.
The same tactic has chosen artistic director of Balenciaga Demna Gvasalia but for his own brand Vetements. He will present both women’s wear and menswear together during the men’s show weeks in January and June.
Antonio Marras followed the example of colleagues and did not take part in the men’s fashion week in June. He will combine instead his men’s and women’s spring collections, holding one single show during women’s fashion week in September.
While the mentioned brands and many others look forward and vote for the new schedule, the old-timers of the fashion world, such as Loewe, Lanvin, Dolce & Gabbana and other French fashion houses are not enthusiastic about the innovation. They believe that the luxury pieces deserve to be the object of desire for several months. They should not be sold like hotcakes, as it usually happens with new collections of mass market brands.
Anyway, the coming fashion season with its shows and following sales will tell whose approach is more effective. We’ll just have to wait!