Before we traditionally plunge in the next fashion season in autumn, traveling the main fashion week capitals, we want to remember about a series of big departures and appointments that have occurred in the leading fashion houses since the beginning of 2016. Recently, there were so many designer shake-ups that we barely had time to follow the rotation of the brands’ creative directors. To prepare for the autumn fashion debuts, now is the perfect time to take stock and remember who of famous designers changed a place of work, and who is still in free floating.
Out: Francisco Costa and Italo Zucchelli
In: Raf Simons
Francisco Costa and Italo Zucchelli were ushered out of their respective roles as creative directors of women’s and men’s at Calvin Klein Collection. And after months of rumors swirling, last week Calvin Klein has officially confirmed the hire of Raf Simons, who left Dior in October 2015, as its new chief creative officer.
Out: Raf Simons
In: Maria Grazia Chiuri
As we have said, Dior is not so quickly found a replacement for Raf Simons. The brand hadn’t eminent leader for almost a year. But in July, the fashion house named Maria Grazia Chiuri as its new creative director, placing a woman at the helm of the pre-eminent fashion house for the first time in its 69-year history. She was previously co-creative director at the Italian label Valentino together with Pierpaolo Piccioli. Perhaps he will remain the only creative director of Valentino brand.
Diane von Furstenberg
Out: Michael Herz
In: Jonathan Saunders
In May Diane von Furstenberg announced that she’s hired the Scottish designer Jonathan Saunders as her company’s chief creative officer. In December 2015, he suddenly announced that he would shutter the eponymous womenswear label he founded in 2003, cuing widespread speculation that he was in the running for the top job at Dior. But now Saunders is following a line of male designers who’ve worked alongside Von Furstenberg, the last one of which was Michael Herz. But his predecessor hadn’t such broad responsibilities.
Out: Hedi Slimane
In: Anthony Vaccarello
In April Saint Laurent announced the departure of Hedi Slimane as its creative and image director. During four years with Saint Laurent he completely revamped the company in his own image of rocker cool. His successor became Anthony Vaccarello, whose aesthetics, by the way, is very similar to Slimane’s collections.
Out: Anthony Vaccarello
Before naming the creative director of Saint Laurent, a talented designer Anthony Vaccarello had collaborations with many authoritative fashion houses. And for the last two years he has been the creative director of the second line of Versace fashion house – Versus. Now this vacancy is still open.
Out: Massimiliano Giornetti
After working for more than 15 years at the fashion house, the last five of which – as the creative director of Salvatore Ferragamo, Massisiliano Giornetti resigned in March. The brand has not yet found a replacement for him, for now it is relying on its in-house teams for collections.
Out: Brendan Mullane
In: Justin O’Shea
Brioni menswear couture house has also undergone significant changes. After nearly four years at Brioni Brendan Mullane has departed. The house’s new creative director became the star of street style and Instagram Justin O’Shea. It’s rather unexpected decision, because Justin is not even a designer. Before this position he was global fashion director of MyTheresa.
Out: Alessandro Sartori
Another brand of classic menswear, which was headed about five years by the Italian designer Alessandro Sartori, lost its creative director. Reportedly in discussions the next one will be the Colombian designer Haider Ackermann. This information appeared in the press a few weeks ago. So, we haven’t confirmed it yet.
Out: Stefano Pilati
In: Alessandro Sartori
After the departure from Berluti, Alessandro Sartori took a similar position at Ermenegildo Zegna, which during the last four years belonged to Stefano Pilati. But the new appointment of Sartori cannot be called a surprise. Before joining Berluti in 2011, Sartori spent eight years as designer of Z Zegna, the Italian brand’s second line.
Out: Alessandra Facchinetti
Alessandra Facchinetti also joined the ranks of the departed artistic directors in May. She said goodbye to the Tod’s fashion house after three years of working together. She also worked at Gucci and Valentino before.
Out: Ennio and Carlo Capasa
In March it was announced that Ennio and Carlo Capasa, who founded the Italian fashion house Costume National in 1986, are stepping down from their respective roles as creative director and chief executive of the label. The brand is currently owned by the Japanese company Sequedge, whom the Capasas first partnered with in 2009.
Out: Alber Elbaz
In: Bouchra Jarrar
The fashion world was shocked when Alber Elbaz was ousted from Lanvin in October 2015, the house he revived over a 14-year tenure. In March 2016 his successor became couturier Bouchra Jarrar. She has already presented her first cruise collection for the brand. But her real debut will be during the Spring 2017 season. As for Elbaz, sources said that he will soon be seen in collaboration with the Uniqlo brand, Japan’s fast fashion label. By the way, not so long ago it became known that Christophe Lemaire had also joined to Japanese brand team, leading the Uniqlo U line.